Celine

November 29, 2024

OLD CELINE VS NEW CELINE

CELINE lovers are divided into two camps: those who adore the Phoebe Philo era (Old Céline) and those who embrace the Hedi Slimane era (New Céline).
 
Phoebe Philo, Hedi Slimane ⓒdazeddigital.com

 

The Old Céline faction is particularly passionate. When Hedi Slimane was announced as the new creative director in 2018, many fans expressed deep disappointment and frustration. This isn't just speculation. The value of vintage Old Céline pieces has soared by 30%, and the Instagram account @oldceline, dedicated to archiving Phoebe's tenure, has amassed over 360,000 followers. This surge in popularity reflects both a reverence for Phoebe's departure and a critique of Slimane's arrival.

 

@oldceline account

 

But let's rewind. Before Phoebe Philo, CELINE had a very different identity. Founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana as a children's shoe and accessory brand, it wasn't until the 1950s that it transitioned into a women's wear label.

While designers like Michael Kors and Ivana Omazic held the creative reins in the late 90s and early 2000s, it wasn't until Phoebe Philo's arrival in 2008 that CELINE truly came into its own. She transformed the brand from a somewhat bland label into a coveted fashion house.

 

Celine 1970s campaign, Michael Kors’s Celine @hautehistory.co.uk
Ivana Omazic’s final collection for Celine FW08 @vogue.com

In 2008, Phoebe Philo joined CELINE and transformed it into the brand we know today, rescuing it from a reputation of uninspiring designs. She was the first to revive CELINE from its slump, and in 2019, Hedi Slimane took the reins, propelling the brand to even greater heights. CELINE's golden era is defined by these two designers, so understanding the brand means exploring both Philo’s and Slimane’s visions. What if we asked them the same question—how would they answer? Let's find out.

 

What does CELINE mean to you?

Phoebe Philo, Celine SS16 @fashionista.com
 

"In CELINE, I had complete creative freedom. That’s why I work here,” Phoebe Philo openly expressed her deep connection to the brand in a 2014 interview with The Guardian. Before joining CELINE, she spent five years at Chloe, where she struggled to assert her ideas due to the brand’s strong, unyielding aesthetic.

 
2010 Resort: Phoebe’s First Collection. The Signature Classic Box Bag Makes Its Debut.
   
At the time Phoebe Philo took over, CELINE was like a blank canvas. The brand had been in a prolonged period of stagnation, with even its iconic mood not properly defined. However, this very emptiness was what appealed most to Phoebe, who thrived on overcoming limitations. And so, she embarked on a mission to infuse the brand with her distinctive vision, feeling as if she were starting from scratch.
  
Hedi Slimane, Celine SS19 ⓒmic.com
      

The same went for Hedi. His career has always been intertwined with near-revolutionary changes, much like his work at the storied Dior and SAINT LAURENT. CELINE was no exception. The very first thing he did upon taking the helm was to overhaul the brand’s iconic logo. It’s no longer surprising, really. Anyone familiar with his history could have predicted it. Just as he removed "Yves" from Yves Saint Laurent, he stripped the accents from CÉLINE. Furthermore, he quickly launched a menswear line, swiftly erasing Phoebe’s traces.

    
SS19: Hedi’s First Collection. The Menswear Line Also Makes Its Debut. ⓒvogue.com
      

"Celine’s identity wasn’t as strong as Dior or Saint Laurent, which made it easier to move away from the past." In a 2018 interview with Vogue, Hedi describes his first impression of Celine this way. He adds that imitating a predecessor’s work is a misinterpretation of the brand, and that it’s the director’s role to bring their own vision to the table with thorough respect. This statement not only acknowledges the influence of the former director, Phoebe Philo, but also serves as a declaration of the forthcoming transformation at Celine.

       

What Are We Pursuing?

"Humans have always worshipped beauty. That’s how it has always been." Phoebe’s Celine is all about the pursuit of beauty, nothing more, nothing less. Yet, Old Celine succeeded so remarkably because it presented a reinterpreted, new kind of beauty from a women’s perspective.
    
SS16 ⓒwmagazine.com
   

Phoebe wanted women to feel confidence and strength when wearing Celine. She aimed for them to shed the imposed sexual images and to be liberated from the constraints of others' gazes. Her goal was for fashion to come across as freedom, not a burden. That’s why she approached clothing design as if creating a daily uniform. She prioritized practical considerations, such as how functional the garments were, the comfort of wearing them, and whether they allowed for natural movement. Ultimately, she meticulously examined which clothes best suited the 'real me'.

    
©vogue.com 
     
But Hedi’s Celine was different. The most noticeable change was the continuation of the slim-fit style he had showcased at Dior and Saint Laurent, now applied to Celine. This brought with it a higher barrier to entry. In a 2018 interview with W Magazine, he remarked, "A designer is nothing without a model. I see the model as an artist," clearly stating his perspective on the human body. He added that if there is no body to wear his clothes, they cannot be 'realized' and thus would not make it to the runway.  

      

 SS20 ⓒfashionista.com
      
So, Hedi’s new Celine is not intended for the masses. It doesn’t carry the grand implications of Phoebe’s Celine. His creations, born from a more personal and intimate perspective, are designed strictly according to his own aesthetic standards. For him, fashion might even be a conduit to ignite his creativity and artistic spirit. “I’ve found my style over the past 20 years,” he says, considering the slim silhouettes, delicate physiques, and musical moods he has obsessively pursued as essential to defining himself as a director. This isn’t limited to Celine alone; it’s a lifelong condition that will manifest wherever he goes.
     
Indeed, if Hedi’s philosophy is the only way to realize his vision, we have no choice but to wholly rely on him to experience the future of Celine. Even if it means changing ourselves in the process.

     

©vogue.com

    

What is the most powerful inspiration that drives you?


"I want to infuse love and joy into everything I create." Phoebe reportedly made this vow while preparing for her 2018 SS collection. Perhaps her deep attachment to love developed through her experiences as a woman and a mother. In this way, love and family embody the warm and thoughtful mood that Phoebe’s Celine represents.

  
ⓒmedium.com
 

The vision of women Phoebe has portrayed through Celine has been one of soft, elegant strength. In some ways, this is a mood far more challenging to express than mere coolness. Yet, Phoebe readily achieves this elusive atmosphere through the modern sensibilities of minimalism and the use of exceptional fabrics. She imparts a sense of stability to her collections with gentle color palettes and classic textiles like wool and silk.

 
©vogue.com
   

Youth, music, and black.

In contrast, Hedi’s new Celine attempts to distinguish itself from Old Celine through these three words. Just as with all of Hedi’s previous works. Especially youth, which is a perfect keyword to define his bold and adventurous collections. It reflects the diverse subcultures that filled his childhood, the untamed energy of the rockstars he admired, and the familiar melodies that always provided comfort during tough times. The new Celine we see today is, without a doubt, a reflection of the very culture Hedi has cherished.

   

ⓒvogue.com, ⓒfuckingyoung.es

    

Now, let’s talk about color. Hedi reportedly reviewed over hundreds of samples to find the perfect black for Celine. His deep understanding of black's unique qualities came through his extensive career. His special affection for black is evident not only in his collections but also in his photographic work, which has consistently adhered to black and white. The presence of contours vividly revealed through the interplay of light and shadow is a testament to this. The obsession with silhouette seen in Hedi’s designs can be traced back to this very point.

  

Photos taken by Hedi Slimane ⓒharpersbazaar.com, ⓒhedislimane.com

 

On Muses and Campaigns

The cosmic connection between Phoebe and model Daria Werbowy, who was essentially the face of Old Celine, was truly a match made in heaven. Their resemblance was so striking that it might lead one to wonder if they were twins. Perhaps because of this, Phoebe consistently featured Daria in Celine’s campaigns. In the end, they were each other’s muse and persona.

     

Daria Werbowy, Phoebe Philo ⓒthecut.com
   
Did Phoebe’s aesthetic vision truly capture the hidden strength within Daria? The elegant and sophisticated image of Daria meshes perfectly with the subtle power of Celine’s designs, like interlocking cogs with no room for error. The photography was largely handled by Juergen Teller, and this trio earned widespread acclaim in the fashion world and beyond, often hailed as a fashion dream team. Juergen’s style, known for its unflinching exploration of the subject through overexposure techniques, collides with Daria’s enigmatic mask to create an unprecedented new atmosphere. This is pure synergy.
    
Daria, photographer Juergen Teller, and Phoebe ⓒbellazon.com
Daria in Celine's campaigns ⓒvogue.com
    
So, who is Hedi’s muse? Rather than a person, his muse is rock music itself, which he is deeply immersed in. He reflects his passion for rock through Celine’s campaigns, showcasing a lineage that starts with legendary rockstar Bob Dylan and extends through Jack White and Julian Casablancas of The Strokes. His work actively incorporates his tastes. Additionally, he brings in globally adored K-pop stars like Lisa from Blackpink and V from BTS, offering a fresh perspective. This casting not only transcends a single brand’s campaign but also highlights his exceptional sense for cultural icons of the era.
    
ⓒharpersbazaar.com, ⓒrollingstone.com
    
So, who takes the photos? Hedi does it himself, much like Karl Lagerfeld at CHANEL. While Karl famously took over the camera because he was dissatisfied with his photographers, Hedi’s case is different. He has been honing his photography skills since childhood and puts them to excellent use. Although he consistently sticks to black and white, this choice ensures that Celine’s unique mood is being meticulously crafted.
    
ⓒfashionotography.com, ⓒtheimpression.com

 

In the Name of Celine

It’s still too early to determine the outcome between the two. Phoebe, who had abruptly left the fashion scene, has recently made a return with her own brand, PHOEBE PHILO. Critics say that Old Celine’s influence is strongly felt, yet they also praise its fresh appeal through the combination of classic bases and modern tailoring. However, Hedi is not to be outdone. Despite ongoing criticism of self-replication, he continues to demonstrate the strength of New Celine through a loyal fan base and impressive sales growth.
   
PHOEBE PHILO, New Brand of Phoebe Philo ⓒvogue.com
CELINE FW23 ⓒlofficielusa.com

   

Doesn’t matter who wins. While this is just a playful comparison, for those who haven’t yet made up their minds, here’s a look at the editor’s favorite collections from each director. First up, Phoebe’s 2017 SS collection. It features the impeccable pairing of naturally oversized tailoring with the Clasp bag, and dresses inspired by the works of French artist Yves Klein. Each element is flawlessly executed, showcasing a perfect composition.

   
Yves Klein, Anthropometry of the Blue Period
SS17 ⓒvogue.com

    

Hedi’s collections undeniably make the men's line the focal point. He has shattered the longstanding barrier of Celine’s traditionally male-free domain, delivering a spectacular transformation. Particularly, the Spring 2022 collection is notable for its standout looks, with Hedi’s unique sensibility bringing a trendy twist to punk and grunge aesthetics.

    

SS20 ⓒvogue.com, ⓒceline.com
   
Phoebe's Old Celine, which awakened the true meaning of fashion for women, and Hedi's New Celine, which infuses fashion with the culture of its time. Have you finally realized it? Between these two powerful Celines, we will forever be caught in a cycle of contemplation.