Less is More
March 05, 2025
Less is More
The fashion world is currently under the spell of minimalism. From the ever-present "effortlessly chic" aesthetic to quiet luxury and demure elegance, the message is clear: excess is out. Minimalism, at its core, is the art of subtraction.
But stripping things down doesn’t automatically lead to perfection. Especially in fashion. A relentless pursuit of simplicity can easily slip into the realm of the dull. So what’s the key to nailing minimalism in fashion? Balance. The challenge is to create harmony with the least amount of elements. That’s why every single item matters. Yes, it’s a demanding approach.
The Age of Minimalism: The 1990s
Luckily, we have a treasure trove of minimalist references from the past. Enter 1990s fashion. Clean lines, impeccable tailoring, muted color palettes, and wardrobe essentials dominated both the runway and the streets.
Nicole Kidman and Uma Thurman, elegantly styled with sharp tailoring.
Molly Ringwald and Alicia Silverstone, highlighting a minimalist aesthetic with accessories and a black-and-white palette. ⓒrefinery29.com, ⓒpinterest
One of the most striking examples? Late-'90s Calvin Klein. The designer himself once summed up his philosophy in an interview with Vogue:
“My clothes are loose, comfortable, and sexy, but… always casual.”
His shows weren’t about obsessive, rigid minimalism but about seamlessly blending into everyday life.
90s celebrities chose Calvin Klein dresses for official events. ⓒvogue.fr
For Spring 1995, Calvin Klein focused on black and white ensembles, with midi-length skirts taking center stage. Instead of unnecessary layering or mix-and-match styling, the collection relied on fabrics like satin and lace or subtle neckline variations to introduce variety.
SS95 ⓒvogue.com
By contrast, Fall 1995 took cues from the minimalism of the 1960s, channeling the timeless sophistication of Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Jacqueline Kennedy. The color palette was deliberately restrained, sticking to camel, gray, and black-and-white to create an effortlessly polished look.
FW95 ⓒvogue.com
Then came 1996 and 1997, when Calvin Klein experimented with pastels and International Klein Blue, infusing a more casual and youthful energy into his collections. He mastered the art of enhancing the body’s natural curves while keeping unnecessary exposure at bay, preserving femininity while making it accessible.
SS96
FW96
SS96
FW97 ⓒvogue.com
The one element that remained constant in Calvin Klein’s collections? Tailoring.
While silhouettes evolved over the years, every piece always played its part to perfection. A jacket was unmistakably a jacket, pants were unmistakably pants. There was no room for deviation, only a disciplined sense of refinement.
FW97
SS98 ⓒvogue.com
His collections stood the test of time because he understood fabric at an intimate level. His slip dresses, textured knitwear, and unexpected use of leather all showcased how minimalism thrives on achieving the right balance. Different materials, when paired thoughtfully, create entirely new moods and narratives.
FW99
SS95 ⓒvogue.com
Strip down to the essence
By definition, minimalism seeks to reduce embellishments and get to the essence of things. In fashion, this means prioritizing function over excess. If you were to own just one perfect piece, which one would it be? To help answer that, here are a few brands that embody minimalism in the most refined way possible.
THE ROW
Minimalism is ingrained in its DNA. THE ROW was founded on a quest to create the perfect T-shirt, and that ethos still defines the brand today. Their latest collections lean heavily into black, refined tailoring, and a head-to-toe sense of quiet sophistication. What stands out the most is their ability to maximize comfort while still delivering a wide range of styling possibilities.
FW24
SS25
FW25 ⓒvogue.com
KHAITE
Leather connoisseur KHAITE continuously pushes minimalism in fresh and unexpected ways, adding dynamic elements through color and fabric. The brand excels at maintaining clean lines while playing with details—emphasized shoulders, statement necklines, and a precise amount of flair. Its slightly moody color palette, rather than feeling dull, transforms into an effortlessly chic urban aesthetic.
FW24
SS25 ⓒvogue.com
Tibi
Tibi’s take on ’90s minimalism feels surprisingly full of life. True to its reputation for practicality, the brand champions function over ornamentation. Their Fall 2024 collection leans sporty, proving that even minimalism can be fun. And as always, their fabric choices are impeccable, sometimes even making wrinkles look like a deliberate design element.
FW24
SS25 ⓒvogue.com
JIL SANDER
“JIL SANDER’s greatest achievement is reviving the relationship between professionalism and elegance.” Vogue once praised the brand with these words. Yet, recent collections have shown an unexpected boldness with sharper angles, electrifying colors, and more daring silhouettes. Then just when things seem to be tipping into excess, JIL SANDER pulls back with razor-sharp precision. This delicate balance between rebellion and restraint has defined the brand’s evolution over the past three years.
FW24
RESORT25 ⓒvogue.com
Loulou de Saison
LOULOU STUDIO recently rebranded to Loulou de Saison, but the philosophy remains the same: fewer pieces, maximum impact. This brand proves that true innovation can come from the subtlest of changes.
ⓒlouloudesaison.com
Beare Park
A newcomer to the scene, Beare Park is an Australian brand founded in 2021 that’s already making waves. They source premium fabrics from France, Italy, and Japan while rejecting fleeting trends in favor of an instinctive approach to simplicity. While minimalism and drama don’t typically go hand in hand, Beare Park somehow makes it work, proving that simplicity can still be show-stopping.
RESORT25 ⓒvogue.com
French writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, the author of The Little Prince, once said:
“Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.”
In an era of excess, how much are we clinging to in pursuit of perfection?