Seoul: The World’s Cafe Capital (really)
December 17, 2024
"Meeting 3 Coffee Shop Owners: A Quest for the Perfect Cup"
Meeting Three Unique Cafe Owners
We sat down with three coffee connoisseurs, each having spent years in pursuit of the perfect brew. As both coffee lovers and professionals in the industry, they share their thoughts on coffee and personal taste.
MANUFACT COFFEE
Roaster: Noh Hyuk
Q1. Please introduce yourself briefly.
Hello, I’m Noh Hyuk, and I work at Manufact Coffee.
Q2. Roasting is an essential step in transforming coffee beans into a delicious cup. Can you tell us about a typical day in the life of a roaster, especially considering that you roast and ship on the same day?
Our days start early, around 8 AM. We begin by checking orders for the day. Then, we move on to cold brew extraction, roasting, and packaging. Once the packages are ready, we load them onto the delivery truck, and that's typically the end of our day.
Q3. I've read that some roasters can taste over 200 cups of coffee in a day to assess quality. How many cups of coffee do you personally consume on a daily basis?
I think that saying someone tastes 200 cups a day is a bit of an exaggeration. When we cup coffee, we're really just "tasting" it to assess flavor. As for me, I typically enjoy just one cup of coffee a day outside of work.
ⓒhttps://manufactcoffee.com
Q4. What's the most rewarding part of being a roaster?
As many coffee lovers can attest, I absolutely adore the aroma that escapes from a freshly opened bag of coffee beans. It's incredibly satisfying to be surrounded by that fragrance all day long.
Q5. What does your typical workwear look like?
I wear the same work uniform five days a week. My daily style doesn’t change much either, but the price tag on the items might be a bit higher.
Q6. Just like fashion, the coffee industry also experiences trends. As a coffee enthusiast, what do you think will be the biggest coffee trend this year?
While I enjoy coffee, I'm more interested in the Korean coffee scene. I think that unique and exotic concepts will continue to be popular with consumers. In other words, I predict that cafes offering a variety of international flavors will be the next big thing.
Q7. What's your go-to coffee bean these days?
I've been hooked on the "RUDOLPH" blend by Manufact Coffee. The moment you grind the beans, this amazing aroma of roasted berries fills the air. It's such a delightful coffee, but I'm sad to say that it's been discontinued.
MANUFACT’s SEASON BLEND COFFEE RUDOLPH ⓒmanufactcoffee.com
Q8. Are there any particular clothing brands that you're fond of?
I really like the Japanese outdoor brand “go slow caravan”. It's great for adding a casual touch to any outfit without being too over the top. It's a brand that combines comfort and individuality. I'm starting to understand why adults enjoy wearing outdoor clothing.
Q9. Do you have any other hobbies or interests besides coffee?
I'm a huge fan of J-POP. I listen to everything from city pop and Shibuya-kei to 2000s hip-hop and soul. Thanks to some DJ friends, I've recently gotten into collecting vinyl records. If you're looking for some spring tunes, I recommend "接吻-kiss-" by ORIGINAL LOVE and "Delay" by mitsume.
Mitsume 5th album "Ghosts” ⓒmitsumeband
Q10. Final question, what does coffee mean to you?
I'm not sure if people go to cafes for the coffee or the cafe itself, but one thing's for sure: cafes are loved because they bring people together with good music and great coffee. That's why I love working in a cafe. I've met so many wonderful people and made countless memories all because of coffee. I'd say coffee has been the central part of my social life, and it's been a bridge to so many experiences.
Paori
Non-coffee Cafe Moon Jiho
Q1. You mentioned starting Paori due to a personal desire for non-coffee options. What was the very first menu item you developed?
Our very first menu item was a unique iced tea that combines the sweetness of coconut and apple, the tartness of lime, and the freshness of peppermint. We wanted something refreshing, so we simply named it "Iced Tea." It's one of those drinks that can surprise people if they enjoy the combination of flavors.
Q2. What inspires your drink creations? Do you draw inspiration from other cafes or sources?
I’d say most of Paori’s drinks are truly one-of-a-kind. They’re real signatures. I don’t reference other menus—I create everything purely from my imagination.
Q3. On my first visit, I was struck by the warm atmosphere of the café, just as much as the drinks. What was your focus when creating that environment?
I believe that the drinks at Paori offer a truly one-of-a-kind experience. When developing new menu items, I don't look to other cafes for ideas. Instead, I let my creativity run wild and come up with something completely original.
Paori: A Café Bathed in Natural Light
Q4. Does your home resemble Paori in any way?
I just recently started living on my own, and it’s my first time decorating a place. I’ve been taking inspiration from the rooms at the Ace Hotel in Kyoto.
Q5. Why did you choose Paori for the name? Did you take it from the Pokémon character?
Right. Paori (Farfetch’d in English) the Pokémon. I chose the name "Paori" because I liked the balance of the syllables and the overall sound. It has both an Eastern and Western feel.
In elementary school, during our sports day, everyone dressed up as popular Pokémon characters, but I chose Paori because nobody else did. I thought it was fitting for a place that serves both coffee and tea. The name "Paori" actually comes from a Japanese proverb meaning "a duck carrying a leek." It's used to describe a situation where something is perfectly timed or convenient. So, in a way, it's like saying, "I came here looking for a nice beverage, but ended up finding delicious coffee and desserts too.”
Q6. I recall commenting on your outfit when I first visited the cafe. Can you tell me a bit about your typical work attire?
Given the nature of my work, comfort is key. I tend to gravitate towards really soft and worn-in t-shirts from brands like RE/DONE and James Perse. I've had some of these for years. And for footwear, I always reach for my VISVIM sneakers. They're hands-down the most comfortable shoes I own.
(left) VISVIM suede boots.
Q7. I'm curious, do you find that many of your customers pay attention to your personal style?
Yes, actually quite a few of my customers seem to notice my style. It's kind of funny but I've noticed that my appearance sometimes affects how people feel about the cafe. So while I prioritize comfort, I try to put a little extra effort into my outfits.
Q8. What item do you cherish the most in your collection?
If I had to choose, I'd say my Aleksandr Manamis long blazer, my VISVIM Kuiba boots that have saved me so many times, and my OUR LEGACY parachute jacket that I've had for seven years.
Q9. You also mentioned Paul Harnden, UMA WANG, and Elena Dawson to name a few. Your style definitely has a niche, feminine influence there.
I'd say my style is heavily influenced by 19th-century fashion. I love the simplicity and elegance of clothing from that era. My passion for natural fabrics like cotton and linen comes from there as well. My dad being a pattern maker definitely played a role in shaping my aesthetic. I spent a lot of time in my early 20s learning about the construction of clothing, and that knowledge has stayed with me.
ⓒAleksandr Manamis, ⓒUMA WANG
Q10. What are you planning for the future?
I’m imagining a small, artisanal shop that is beloved and respected for many years to come.
Hwandae
Barista Jang Hyeon-seok
Q1. The name of your cafe is "Hwan Dae" which means "to welcome warmly and treat generously." Is that correct?
Yes, that's right. I chose the name simply because I liked the meaning. I did hesitate a bit, I wasn’t sure if I could live up to such a beautiful meaning.
Q2. What aspect of the cafe's interior design did you focus on the most?
I'm a big fan of Artek furniture. While I used to prefer vintage pieces, watching the movie "Kamome Diner" made me appreciate new furniture more. I love the idea of furniture aging and evolving with its owner over time. That's why I decided to furnish the entire cafe with new Artek pieces. It was a lot of work, as their products aren't always in stock.
Scene from the movie <Kamome Diner>
(Left) A hefty, 800+ page copy of Fernando Pessoa's "The Book of Disquiet" sits beside an iconic ARTEK Chair 65.
(Right) A classic arrangement of ARTEK furniture featuring an Alvar Aalto table, Chair 66, and Stool 60.
Q3. Running a cafe by yourself can be quite solitary. How do you spend those quiet moments?
I actually enjoy those quiet moments. I like being alone with my thoughts and favorite music. I usually spend that time reading or developing new menu items.
Q4. Hwan Dae is located in a quiet alleyway, a bit off the beaten path. What kind of person is your typical customer?
Many people come to our cafe to read and focus. I often find myself seeking out quiet spaces to concentrate, so I feel a sense of satisfaction when I see the cafe filled with people who share the same goal. It's like the space comes alive.
Q5. What kind of music do you feel sets the mood at Hwan Dae?
I aim for a peaceful ambiance, so I choose music with a gentle, soothing sound. When I find a piece that really speaks to me, I know it's just right for the cafe.
(Left) Pianist Keith Jarrett (Right) Justice Der
Q6. How do you spend your days off?
I consider an ideal day off to be one where I wake up early, go out, and come home early. My perfect day would involve buying a bunch of donuts, coming home, and watching a movie. Just thinking about it is getting me excited for my day off.
Q7. Dark roast vs. light roast. Which do you prefer?
I prefer light roasts. I like the tea-like quality of a lighter roast. If I'm adding milk, I tend to lean towards a darker roast.
Q8. Can you describe your typical work outfit at the cafe? How does it compare to what you wear on your days off or for special occasions?
Comfort is key for me, no matter what I'm doing. I've found that feeling comfortable, whether I'm working or socializing, helps me feel more relaxed. I tend to avoid anything that's too heavy or constricting, as it can make me feel tired, so my everyday style is pretty consistent.
Q9. Could you name your favorite brand?
I prefer brands that focus on quality materials over intricate designs. I recently bought a hoodie from the American brand Lady White. I tend to buy items in multiple colors if I really like them, and this hoodie is one of those.
ⓒLadywhiteco.com
Q10. What does coffee mean to you?
I would say coffee is like an "awakening." Before I started enjoying coffee I felt like there were many things I was closed off to. Since then I've met many more open-minded people and have grown a lot. I hope to continue sharing meaningful moments with coffee as it plays a big role in my life.