SABOTAGE-STREET

Taken from the French word sabot, sabotage merges the seemingly unrelated meanings of "clogs" and "destructive acts." According to legend, medieval peasants protested against their lords by deliberately disrupting work while wearing crude wooden clogs. They would stomp on machines or crops, working clumsily and slowly as a form of protest. Sabotage was officially added to the dictionary in 1906, eventually coming to signify "intentional disruption" in contemporary terms.

      

   

When visualising resistance against authority, graffiti comes to mind as a powerful medium. Sabotage usually involves actions that disrupt and oppose authority or decrease productivity, and graffiti has the additional effect of visually conveying messages loudly in public spaces while raising a voice of dissent. It skillfully treads the fine line between art and vandalism—the intentional destruction of public or private property.

   

Graffiti began as simple inscriptions or messages etched on the walls of ancient Egypt or Rome and by the mid-20th century it had established itself as a symbol of resistance and expression in New York City. Graffiti started to flourish in the Bronx in the late 1960s, and growing alongside hip-hop culture, exploded in popularity during the 1970s on the New York subway system. It has since transformed into a powerful means of communicating political and social messages in public spaces.

    

   

“I cross out words so you will see them more.” Jean-Michel Basquiat intentionally sabotaged his work to draw attention to what he wanted to emphasize. Is it because we are instinctively more drawn to what is broken rather than whole? This approach of Basquiat is repeatedly reinterpreted in contemporary collections today.

Launching his brand AWGE in the second half of 2024, A$AP Rocky presented the AWGE SS25 debut collection which highlights the diverse races, minority groups, and impoverished communities within the United States. The new collection vividly reflects the environment he has lived in, delivering a message as destructive and impactful as Basquiat’s own artwork.

     

Interestingly, design elements of sabotage as a style can be traced throughout various SS25 and FW24 collections. Starting with the aforementioned AWGE, numerous brands like doublet, Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO, and ACNE STUDIOS have all showcased powerful collections that echo the keyword “sabotage.” As a result, jente has defined this trend as rebellious spirit captured and displayed in the streets, coining the term “sabotage-street”

     

To unpack this abstract concept of sabotage street in fashion, I’ve outlined a few steps to describe its essence. The first step in rebellion is doing what you’re told not to do. In simpler terms, it means acting in direct opposition to a neat and classic attitude. Imagine the clothes your mom dislikes: items like a short-sleeve t-shirt layered over a long-sleeve one, or pants that look like they’re layered in threes or fours. Items with plenty of torn details and oversized silhouettes also exemplify the styling points of this keyword. So, what specific styling did each of these brands present?

     

AWGE

“I’ve been into fashion since I was born.” — A$AP Rocky

In an interview, A$AP Rocky told readers of his deep attachment to fashion. He has established himself as a leading figure in the industry, long since transcending the stereotype of being just a well-dressed rapper. In June 2024, he burst onto the fashion scene this time as a designer with his brand AWGE, capturing our attention with his first collection, American Sabotage.

    

ⓒ@pabloattal

     

doublet

"We must help people feel hope again," says creative director Masayuki Ino. The theme of this collection, "THE CURE," along with the diverse range of models of various ethnicities and sizes that walked the runway, conveys the message of hope and freedom. It seems to celebrate the diversity that makes up our world and encourages us to embrace it just as it is.

   

      

      

Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO

The FW24 collection, themed "Wobbler Part Four," continues the "Big Silhouette" series that began in the SS24 collection. Key elements of this collection include the oversized bomber jackets and heavily knitted items, both featuring an unusually exaggerated eye-drawing silhouette.

     

Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO FW24 ⓒvogue.com

    

Yasuhiro Mihara has fond memories of wearing his older brother's clothes as a child, and it’s hard to argue that this nostalgia has not shown itself in his designs. The frayed hems of skirts and pants have become an undeniable detail in this collection. Additionally, one standout piece features an outerwear design so oversized that it obscures the wearer's hands, reminiscent of a child wearing adult clothing.

       

ⓒ@miharayasuhiro_official

 

Want to Embrace Your Inner Rebel?

Want to embody the spirit of sabotage street style? Start with a low-slung cap or a head scarf. You can even layer both for a bold look. Details that are torn and frayed, combined with eye-catching graphics, are essential for head accessories that set the tone from the top down.

       

ⓒ@byjoshuajamal

 @smino, ⓒ@rudeboy_________

       

Beyond layered styling, the patterns found in shirts and pants that come pre-layered showcase the timeless check pattern. Though we often associate checks with order and structure, they are incredibly versatile, pairing perfectly with any other pattern or colors. When combined with distressed details or oversized items, these checks can shift a prim and proper look to one exuding a rebellious flair.

 

asap rocky ©Outlander Magazine, ⓒ@byjoshuajamal

     

The camouflage pattern is another essential motif within this trend. Its use in street fashion can be interpreted as a form of rebellion and resistance, almost opposite of it’s original intended use as a military uniform. When this design once meant for concealment is purposefully showcased on the streets, it serves as an expression of defiance against established norms and conventions, boldly revealing one’s identity.

   

Rihanna ⓒwwd.com, YE ©@byjoshuajamal

     

We found ourselves curious about others' opinions on the two patterns, so we asked our Instagram followers at Jente*** Store which they preferred. The results were clear-cut, with a 61:39 victory for the check pattern. So if you're looking to join the sabotage street trend while still maintaining versatility, we recommend opting for check pattern items. However, for those that want to stand out from afar, incorporating camouflage pieces into your wardrobe would be a great choice.

 

jentestore Instagram Survey Results

    

The distressed details—frayed and torn—are fundamental to the sabotage-street spirit. This is just the first step, so it’s best not to skip it.

    

In addition to that, wearing oversized pants that sag down to your hips or opting for tops that are ridiculously large can also express that rebellious attitude. Even wearing items inside out is another valid way to showcase this defiance.

 

satoshi nakamoto FW24 ©satoshinakamoto.com, ACNE STUDIOS FW24 ©vogue.com

Vetements FW24 ⓒvogue.com, ⓒ@miharayasuhiro_official

   

The spirit of sabotage, rooted in the yearning for freedom, is expressed in various ways across our personal lives and cultures around the world. Here’s to all the courageous individuals and their justified rebellion.