A Cowgirl's Fashion Fan Fiction
Reimagining the familiar, VAQUERA crafts a bold, provocative fashion universe.
There’s a saying that nobody can beat someone who’s having fun, and since 2013 VAQUERA’s playful designs have been unstoppable in New York.
Unforgettable at First Glance
I admit that my attention to VAQUERA didn’t begin too long ago, but I’m hooked now. Their bold and clever approach is unrivaled. Their kitschy, humorous designs have captured the heart of an editor like me. It’s impossible not to love VAQUERA.
©vogue.com, ©@vaquera.nyc
If we’re talking standout items, a few come to mind: a bra-printed t-shirt, a violin bag, and a teddy bear keychain. VAQUERA’s cheeky, playful sensibility comes from its founder, Patric Dicaprio. The brand name itself, VAQUERA, is a nod to his nickname “Cowgirl” (a term also used in LGBTQ+ circles). His Instagram? Packed with instantly likeable memes. It’s clear that Patric draws inspiration from social media while also using it as a tool for self-expression.
Vaquera Founders, Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee ©@vaquera.nyc
Patric, now leading the brand, hails from Alabama, while his collaborator Bryn Taubensee comes from Indiana. Growing up far from fashion capitals like New York meant their childhoods were distant from the industry’s epicenter. In Patric's hometown, Coco Chanel was the only designer name people knew. So, Patric turned to social platforms like Tumblr and Instagram, where he discovered inspiration that his local surroundings lacked. This realization ignited his passion for fashion and ultimately brought him to New York to pursue his career.
©@vaquera.nyc
It’s no surprise that VAQUERA’s debut collection in 2013 was launched on Tumblr. In its early days, the brand boldly recreated entire CHANEL looks with just the VAQUERA logo added, breaking traditional fashion norms. They also stirred intentional controversy by borrowing designs from icons like Martin Margiela and Miguel Adrover, but that was the point. They made it clear that they were reusing these designs. Unlike most designers who shy away from directly acknowledging their sources, VAQUERA thrived by taking existing fashion and transforming it into their own statement.
VAQUERA takes a bold stance, they openly repurpose existing designs and claim it as their path to success. This approach can be encapsulated in the term "Fashion Fan-fiction." Much like fan fiction, where fans create stories based on beloved figures or works, VAQUERA reinterprets fashion created by other designers, transforming it into their own unique narrative.
Such an American Brand
VAQUERA is quintessentially American. Not just because Patric and Bryn are from the U.S., but because they fully embrace and explore American culture. The frequent appearance of the American flag dresses, dollar bills, and images of the Statue of Liberty in their designs are clear indicators of their deep understanding and reflection on the nation's cultural symbols.
©@vaquera.nyc
As the epicenter of capitalism, America naturally reflects a sharp critique of contemporary consumerism and popular culture. Considering that VAQUERA launched in 2013 alongside brands like Opening Ceremony and HOOD BY AIR, which were pivotal in New York’s fashion golden age, it becomes clear that their shared DNA is a rebellious spirit against conventional norms. Until then, VAQUERA had only showcased its looks through presentations and campaigns, making its runway debut at New York Fashion Week in 2017.
VAQUERA FW17, Actual (Tiffany & Co.) Jewelry Pouch ©vogue.com, ©thesilvertrove.com
The standout piece from their debut show was undoubtedly the cocktail dress emblazoned with "Vaquera & Co." This charming look perfectly replicated Tiffany & Co.'s sky-blue jewelry pouch, showcasing VAQUERA's exceptional creativity. It’s a testament to their belief that anything can become fashion within their world, reflecting their bold vision and ambition.
What makes VAQUERA’s collections so intriguing is their knack for drawing inspiration from unexpected sources. Looking at their designs, one can’t help but wonder, “Why so serious? There’s no need.” Their work shines with a celebration of humor and positivity in life.
VAQUERA SS18 ©vaquera.ny
Watching their sense of humor refine with each season is a real treat. While their earlier works were often experimental and designed for the show, recent collections have become more commercial and wearable. The graphic tees with their distinct messages are a particular highlight of their wit. Personally, the highlight of a VAQUERA show is seeing designers Patric and Bryn take the stage at the collection finale. Seeing them appear in pieces from the show always makes me reach for the screenshot button. Such irresistible charm.
VAQUERA SS20, VAQUERA SS22, VAQUERA SS24 ©vogue.com
VAQUERA is a brand that freely transcends the boundaries of gender. Imagine a man in boots and a ribbon on his head, or a woman in a tie. In their world, there are no clothes that separate men from women, only clothes for everyone.
VAQUERA FW18, VAQUERA FW18, VAQUERA SS19 ©vogue.com
VAQUERA’s journey hasn’t been without its challenges. The brand was originally run by four people including Patric. One by one they departed, leaving just the two of them. During the pandemic, they faced severe financial difficulties to the brink of bankruptcy despite each member working side jobs. It was COMME des GARÇONS' Dover Street Market that extended a helping hand during this critical time.
VAQUERA FW24 ©vogue.com
In 2022, they moved their base to Paris Fashion Week. They find that being ‘American’ actually stands out more in the exotic setting of France than it did in America. The distinct oversized cuts, exaggerated textures, and bold mix-and-match styles that come to mind with VAQUERA are becoming more pronounced over time. Through them, we see that a crisis can indeed become an opportunity.
Wearing VAQUERA means
Wearing VAQUERA is simply joyful, and that’s all that matters. The creative collections VAQUERA has presented have always been a source of delight. They’re also forward-thinking in their embrace of individuality beyond rigid boundaries of gender and race. Thus, wearing VAQUERA adds fun to life and moves it forward.
©@vaquera.nyc
©pzdirect.tv
"Vaquera speaks to the bold individual who effortlessly swaps a T-shirt and jeans for a night out and dons an evening gown for a grocery run. It's for those who revel in the thrill of the unexpected and make daring choices their signature.”
"Don’t want to blend in with the crowd? Then Vaquera is the brand for you. Patric and Bryn have mastered the balance between daring fashion and commercial success, and the world they create is bound to keep you intrigued.”
