Willy Chavarria to Chicano Culture

Threads of Defiance: Willy Chavarria to Chicano Culture

Willy Chavarria’s fashion is a powerful expression of Chicano heritage and social activism, using bold designs to challenge societal norms and celebrate marginalized communities with unapologetic elegance.

 

Willy Chavarria at the 2024 Met Gala, ⓒwwd.com

    

Willy Chavarria. This isn’t just another designer name in fashion. It is a force reshaping the industry from the front row, bringing Latin-American culture along with it. While most designers stay hidden behind their creations, Chavarria isn’t afraid to step onto the runway or feature in his own campaigns. His roots are as much a part of his designs as the fabric he uses. Raised with a deep connection to the Latin and Chicano communities, his work is a testament to these cultural influences. Chavarria takes working-class elegance and turns it into high fashion.

After a winding journey of a fashion career through some of the most iconic American fashion houses including Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, and American Eagle, Chavarria has frequently commented on how each of these ‘jobs’ helped give him the the needed skills to succeed in crafting his own brand. (Vogue Business)

Chavarria was never going to be just another cog in the fashion-capitalist machine. These brands taught him the ropes, and his personal label is where his true vision comes to life. Fashion with a social justice backbone, pieces that are both designs and statements confronting issues of race, identity, and sexuality. As a queer designer, he frequently reinterprets masculinity, infusing his collections with a sensitivity that challenges rigid gender norms. His work stands as a visual platform for marginalized voices, particularly those in the LGBTQ+ and BIPOC communities.

  

Willy Chavarria at his own FW24 runway, ⓒwwd.com

    

Recently coming off a position at the helm of Calvin Klein’s menswear, Chavarria’s mission is clear: to make fashion that speaks to inclusivity, culture, and civil rights. He does so with boldness, placing himself front and center. Who better to tell the story of the designs than the man whose life they reflect? His collections are more than clothes, they're symbols of identity, pride, and rebellion. From his oversized, exaggerated silhouettes to his celebration of working-class aesthetics, Chavarria’s work offers an authentic look at the intersection of fashion and social commentary, positioning him as a designer who uses fashion as a tool for activism.

 

Heritage in Motion: Chicano Identity Through Fashion

Not stopping at simply a presentation and preservation of Chicano culture through fashion; Willy Chavarria seeks to re-imagine it for the modern era. Each collection pays homage to the deeply rooted traditions of Chicano identity, while pushing it’s cultural markers into contemporary relevance. The pressed white tees and voluminous silhouettes, borrowed from iconic cholo and pachuco styles, serve as symbols of pride and defiance. These elements aren’t just aesthetic choices for him, they’re declarations of cultural resilience and visibility in a world that often marginalizes these communities.

 

Pachuco style - originating from Texas in early 1900s,  Backstage at the Willy Chavarria Spring 2025 ready-to-wear show at New York Fashion Week. ⓒabcnews ⓒNina Westervelt/WWD.com

   

Chicano culture itself is a rich tapestry woven from the history of Mexican-Americans, grounded in both resistance and celebration. Originating in the 1940s, it was shaped by Mexican-American youth who were asserting their identities in a time of both social and political discrimination and segregation. Key symbols of Chicano fashion like the zoot suits of the pachucos or the baggy pants and bandanas of cholos, were a form of cultural expression that challenged mainstream expectations while creating solidarity within their communities. These styles communicated not only style but a shared struggle, a statement of pride in one’s heritage against the backdrop of systemic oppression in the United States.

You actually may have already been familiar with Chicano culture without even knowing it, as the subculture has significantly impacted West Coast hip-hop and fashion. From the iconic baggy jeans, Dickies and shirts popularized by artists like Snoop Dogg and Dr. Dre, to the lowrider aesthetic that influenced car culture and music videos, Chicano style has become almost synonymous with West Coast hip-hop. This influence extends beyond fashion, with Chicano slang and storytelling also deeply woven into the fabric of the genre.

 

Snoop Dogg, shot by Chi Modu. Kendrick Lamar wearing Willy Chavarria for Bazaar, @willychavarrianewyork

   

Although Chicano culture is uniquely rooted in the Latin experience of the U.S., it has captivated global audiences, particularly in Japan and Vietnam. Japanese Chicano subcultures, for instance, have developed a deep admiration for lowrider culture, streetwear, and the lifestyle attached to it. In Japan, this cultural interpretation is seen at best as more of a romanticized tribute, with enthusiasts embracing the fashion, cars, and even the music, while lacking the historical context tied to Chicano struggles. In Vietnam, a similar trend has emerged, particularly among youth who identify with the rebellious spirit of Chicano culture. Here, the adoption of this style may intersect with Vietnam’s own history of resistance and resilience, creating a unique fusion of cultural appreciation.

 

Vietnamese men in Chicano style clothing, @vietmonster_vm

  

Despite the differences, what unites Latin Chicano culture and its adaptations in Japan and Vietnam is the sense of belonging they offer. Whether it’s through lowriders cruising the streets of East LA or Tokyo, or a group of young people in Ho Chi Minh City donning bandanas and Dickies, these interpretations carry a shared desire to embrace identity in a world where marginalized voices seek recognition. Yes, with a global spread like this comes the important question: how do we differentiate between cultural appreciation and appropriation?

    

The Fine Line of Cultural Expression

Chicano style — with the name Chicano itself originating from a slur used against Mexican-American immigrants— is originally born from struggle, resistance, and pride, and when elements of it are adopted by those outside of the culture without the same historical or social context, it can be difficult to see it as simply appreciating the style. Let’s talk about it.

   

Cultural appreciation, when done respectfully, involves understanding and celebrating the origins, meanings, and traditions behind a community's expressions. In the case of Chicano fashion, it means recognizing the deep-rooted significance of aforementioned pressed white tees and bandanas that were born from a history of marginalization, resistance, and reclamation of space. Those who appreciate the culture do so with a sense of respect, understanding that these aesthetics are tied to the lived experiences of Mexican-American communities.

    

Chicanos in the 1980s, ©tenuedenimes.com

 

Appropriation is another story. It becomes exploitative when iconic Chicano styles are divorced from their history or reduced to mere trends without acknowledging the struggle behind them. In a world where fashion feeds off subcultures, Chavarria himself has spoken about the fine line between inspiration and appropriation (MATTE Projects). For him, it’s essential that those benefiting from Chicano culture, be they fashion houses or global trendsetters, honor the communities from which they borrow. As he says, "If me and my team are benefiting from the trend in a monetary way, then I’d rather be doing it than, say, someone else who lacks that connection". (Perfect˙).

Chavarria’s work embodies this balance by not only borrowing from, but amplifying the culture. His runway shows, casting choices (he was one of the first designers to use exclusively models of color), and campaigns are all tributes to the community, designed to give voice to those who have long been overlooked. And while his influence has spread internationally, his commitment to preserving the integrity of Chicano culture remains central to his mission. For him, fashion is more than fabric; it’s a statement, a declaration of identity, and a platform for activism. (nss magazine).

  

Willy Chavarria FW24, ©voguebusiness

   

As we navigate this global fashion landscape, the line between appreciation and appropriation becomes ever more critical. Designers like Willy Chavarria stand as examples of how to celebrate culture authentically: by staying true to its origins while pushing it into new, exciting spaces. For Chavarria, the goal is clear: to make his culture and it’s fashion not just worn, but understood.

With WILLY CHAVARRIA’s debut Paris Fashion Week show approaching at the end of this January, it’s evident that Chavarria is only getting closer and closer toward that goal being realized on a global scale, commenting in an interview with Vogue Business late last year: “It’s a global message and it’s very important for that message to be heard globally. The more people I can touch with it, the better…. It’s special for me to have the same sort of impact on another continent that we’ve had on North America.”