REPEAT LAB

In Search of Vintage Levi's: A Visit to REPEAT LAB

My history with denim runs deep. My first job involved inspecting hundreds of pairs a month, studying washes and fits until my hands were stained blue. Later, I spent my college graduation pulling all-nighters to stitch dresses and bustiers out of stiff raw denim. I thought I knew the fabric. Then I visited Repeat Lab in Seoul.

 

Q1. We are looking for positive eccentrics. Please introduce yourself and the space.

Hello. I’m Nam Ki-soon. I call myself a non-eccentric eccentric. I run the space Repeat Lab and the brand Repeat Plus.

 

 

Repeat Lab is a space where you can experience the Levi's archive on your own terms. I wanted to break the stigma people have about vintage. Instead of digging through dust piles, we set it up like a brand showroom. We stripped away the hassle so you can focus entirely on finding the product you want.

 

 

We display all the info you actually need — size, fit, production year, and fabric — right on our tags. Before listening to some long explanation, I want people to just put the jeans on and feel them. The space is minimal on purpose, so the focus can remain strictly on the denim.

 

 

Q2. Out of all the fashion items in the world, why denim? And specifically, why Levi's?

Denim is one of the few fabrics that actually gets better with age. Wash and dyeing technology evolves every year, but it can never perfectly copy what time does to the fabric.

  

Out of all the brands, Levi's shows the most variety. The evolution in fit, material, and detail changes so much depending on the era. That depth is what pulled me in.

 

Q3. I heard you curate Levi's from the 70s to the 00s. What are the characteristics of each era?

We stock everything from the 70s to the 2000s.

             

70’s Levi’s 646, 80’s Levi’s 517

90’s Levi’s 505, 00’s Levi’s Silver Tab

 

The 70s were about maintaining tradition in the silhouette. The 80s kept that flow but started focusing more on durability. By the 90s and 00s, street culture took over.

 

70’s Orange Tab, 80’s Orange Tab

The 2000s specifically saw a wider range of fabrics and fits that work for all kinds of body types. The Silver Tab line from the 00s is the best example. These were the go-to pants for skaters. They have a baggy silhouette that pairs perfectly with flat sneakers like Vans. Until then, Levi's had usually stuck to traditional fits with only minor tweaks, so that line offered a generous rise and wide leg for more movement.

 

 

Honestly though, I think these era characteristics are just broad trends. The real difference in vintage denim comes from the previous owner. Their habits, how they washed it, and how they stored it change everything. That is why two pairs of the same model from the same year can look completely different.

 

 

Rather than getting hung up on the year, you have to look at the specific pair in front of you. At Repeat Lab, we want people to look at the character of the individual piece.

 

 

Q4. Levi’s has a massive archive. What are the popular lines, and what does Repeat Lab recommend?

The 517 (Bootcut) and 505 (Regular Straight) are the staples. They have been with us since the beginning. Both models can create totally different styles depending on how you size them, so I recommend them often to our customers.

 

Levi’s 505, Levi’s 517

Levi’s 550, Levi’s 560

For something more casual, the 550 (Relaxed Tapered) or 560 (Loose Tapered) are fun choices. If you size up once or twice and wear them with loafers or light sneakers, they are incredibly easy to style.

 

Q5. What is your personal favorite?

Personally, the 517.

         

 

I wear boots often, so the natural flare of the 517 works best for me. If I’m going to something formal, I’ll wear them with some sharp dress shoes. If I wanted to, I could switch to boots on the way home and let the hem break naturally over the top. The biggest charm of the 517 is how the look shifts depending on whether the shoe is covered or exposed.

 

70’s Levi's 517, Orange Tab

90’s Levi's 517, Orange Tab

 

Q6. You also sell reworked denim. Tell us about the Repeat Plus project.

 

Repeat Plus is exactly what it sounds like. We are adding a Plus to the concept of Repeat. We respect the existing charm of the vintage piece while pushing its possibilities further.
 

ⓒREPEAT LAB

 

It isn't about just chopping things up. We want to take the value created by time and extend it. We select elements that have aged beautifully and combine them in new ways to create something you can’t find off the rack.

Repeat Plus 001: A bootcut fit featuring a side seam incision with contrasting fabric.

     

Repeat Plus 001

   

Repeat Plus 002: A balloon fit. Think of it as a barrel-leg shape.

 

Repeat Plus 002

 

Repeat Plus 003: A hybrid of two different pants. Type A is a slim straight, Type B is bootcut.

 

Repeat Plus 003

 

Repeat Overlock: We use a custom overlock machine to make the stitching element from the belt line to the hem. The fit is slightly altered to a natural straight silhouette. 

 

Repeat Plus Overlock

 

Q7. Tell us about the rework process.

First, I set the design direction. Then I collaborate with professional pattern makers and seamstresses. We don’t just change the shape, we obsess over structure to ensure the final result actually functions as clothing.

 

 

After production, I personally handle the dyeing and coating stages. For coating, we mix high-temperature chemical dyes to achieve a natural color absorption, and since we are applying this to vintage items, the color varies by piece. The coating is designed to crack and peel slowly as you wear it, leaving unique patterns on the fabric.

 

Q8. You mentioned enhancing the charm of natural wear. What do you consider the most beautiful trace on denim? 

The fading caused by friction and the color shift from the sun and air. You can’t manufacture those changes. They are evidence of the wearer’s lifestyle. 

When those elements come together, the denim finally gets its true face.

 

 

Q9. Is there a specific pair or customer that sticks in your memory?

An 80-year-old gentleman once visited the shop.

I remember him opening the door cautiously, looking around as if he had entered a place he shouldn't be. I asked him what kind of fit he wanted. I recommended the 550 because the generous rise is comfortable for the stomach area.

 

Levi’s 550, Orange Tab

 

He tried them on, liked how stable they felt, and bought them. As he was leaving, he said something that stuck with me. "With how much much time alive left I have, these are probably going to be my last pair of jeans."

That hit me. To some, it’s just a pair of blue jeans. To another, it’s a companion for their remaining time. I felt a heavier sense of responsibility toward my customers after that day. But looking at his physique, he seemed healthy. I think I’ll see him a few more times before those jeans wear out.

   

Q10. How do you want customers to view Repeat Lab?

 

I want it to be the first place that pops into your head when you need denim. I want to use Repeat Lab to remove the prejudice against vintage and introduce more people to the diverse faces of used denim.

 

 

Q10. What is the goal for 2026?

Personally, my goal is steadiness. I want to use the experience gained in 2025 to stay the course without being too influenced by outside noise. Direction is more important to me than speed. 

 

For Repeat Lab, we plan to enrich the space by introducing other items that get better with time, like Western boots or designer leather pieces. For Repeat Plus, we will move beyond our current methods and try various different projects to reach more people.

              

 

Q11. A final shoutout to the world?

MAKE LOVE, NOT WAR