Proenza Schouler

November 28, 2024

Defining the Style of the New York Woman

A certain hazy image comes to mind when I think of “success”.

A warm, inviting space framed by floor-to-ceiling windows in a high-rise somewhere in New York, with smooth jazz playing softly in the background. Why New York? I couldn’t say, But it has to be New York. Perhaps it’s the subconscious influence of countless pop culture references. The closet of this dreamy, fantasy quintessential New Yorker? It feels like it would be filled with Proenza Schouler.

For important meetings, a friend’s birthday party, or even a romantic dinner date—it’s the kind of brand that nails that effortlessly chic and sophisticated vibe for every occasion.

 

Womenswear by Two Visionaries

Meet Proenza Schouler, the womenswear brand epitomizing New York sophistication.
Founded by designer duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the label’s story began at Parsons School of Design in 1998. The two met while studying and collaborated on their senior thesis collection, which laid the groundwork for what would become Proenza Schouler. The brand’s name? A heartfelt homage, combining their mothers’ maiden names in a detail as timeless as their designs.
     
Proenza Schouler Design Duos, Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez ©proenzaschouler.com
    
Opportunity favors those who move. For Lazaro Hernandez, that moment came mid-flight when he spotted none other than Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue. Seizing the chance, he scribbled a note on a napkin and slipped it under her drink in first class. Though Anna reportedly brushed him off at the time, she reached out two weeks later to offer him an internship, a pivotal step into the world of commercial fashion.
   
From there, both Hernandez and Jack McCollough secured internships at Vogue. Their senior thesis collection at Parsons crafted with fabrics donated by Michael Kors earned rave reviews. In a defining moment, New York luxury retailer Barneys purchased the entire collection propelling the duo into the spotlight as rising stars in the industry.
       
Proenza Schouler’s First Collection, Re-released by Barneys for its 10th Anniversary ©thecut.com
   

Since officially launching in 2004, Proenza Schouler has steadily risen to prominence. That same year, the brand won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, setting the stage for a series of accolades. Over the years, the duo has claimed the CFDA Accessories Designer of the Year award in 2009, and the Womenswear Designer of the Year award in 2007, 2011, and 2013—amassing an impressive total of five CFDA wins. Today, Proenza Schouler stands as a defining name in American fashion.

 

The iconic Pamela Anderson and Chloë Sevigny, a defining symbol of ’90s Hollywood, takes center stage in the Proenza Schouler SS24 campaign ©@proenzaschouler
  

Twenty years in and Proenza Schouler has become synonymous with New York itself, filling the wardrobes of modern women navigating the city.

 

More Than Just Clothes

So, where does the duo draw their inspiration?
Their creative wellspring often flows from their deep appreciation for art, a passion that naturally weaves into their collections. Perhaps it’s this seamless connection to the art world that makes their designs so distinctive. A quick scroll through Proenza Schouler’s Instagram reveals not just fashion but a curated mix of art pieces they hold dear, evidence of a brand that blends creativity beyond garments.

    

<Leaning Mirror, 1969> - Robert Smithson, <Red Beatts, 1988> - John Chamberlain
<Untitled, 1990> - Donald Judd, <Untitled (Trafalgar Square Plinth), 1991> - Rachel Whiteread ©@proenzaschouler
     
In many ways, Proenza Schouler embodies a pioneering spirit. Rather than building on the legacy of an established house, the brand started from scratch and carved out its own chapter in fashion history.
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the duo at the helm, are an inseparable force behind this narrative. After each collection they take vacations—sometimes together, sometimes apart—using the time to recharge and gather fresh perspectives. They then merge their distinct inspirations, blending two worlds into one cohesive vision. It’s interestingly this dynamic of collaboration and contrast that brings unexpected twists to their collections and results in designs that constantly surprise.

       

©vogue.com
     

The duo puts it simply: they don’t expect everyone who wears Proenza Schouler to fully grasp the art behind it, but they trust people can recognize something beautiful when they see it. With a belief that art becomes fashion when given context, they continue to craft a brand narrative that is uniquely their own.

     
Proenza Schouler FW14 FW18 ©vogue.com
   

"The fashion cycle is constant, like a hamster wheel, repeating itself year after year. That's why collaborating with artists and engaging with people outside the fashion world gives us a fresh perspective." — Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler in an interview with Gagosian.

For their SS17 collection Proenza Schouler presented a heart-shaped cutout top inspired by Heartless, a painting by New York-based artist John Currin.

   

Proenza Schouler SS17 ©vogue.com <Heartless, 1997> - John Currin ©gagosian.com 
    

Proenza Schouler, who has long been exploring the intersection of art and commerce, continues to navigate the blurred lines between these two realms. They believe that a brand can't thrive by simply focusing on commercialism for the sake of profit, yet at the same time, they acknowledge that being overly creative or abstract to the point where the designs are disconnected from the everyday lives of women is equally unproductive. They carefully walk the tightrope, balancing these two opposing forces to maintain a delicate equilibrium.

     

Proenza Schouler’s PS1 bag draws inspiration from the patterns and motifs found in the works of Harmony Korine ©milled.com, <Nudity Clause Line, 2014> - Harmony Korine ©gagosian.com

  

Catching Up with the New Yorker’s Wardrobe

With its sophisticated and extremely wearable silhouettes, Proenza Schouler creates clothing that effortlessly meets the desires of modern urban women. The brand delivers pieces that are stylish without being over the top, embodying modern elegance. Let’s take a closer look at some of their signature items.

  

Key Items You Should Notice

First up the PS1 bag, which became an instant hit upon its release.

Do you remember Leighton Meester, who played the unforgettable “Queen B” Blair Waldorf on Gossip Girl? When the PS1 bag first made its debut, she was quick to step out with it in hand, cementing its place in fashion history.

      

©purseblog.com
    

The PS1 bag, first released in 2008, quickly became a Hollywood favorite and a must-have for celebrities. With its silhouette inspired by school bags it reflects the brand's roots in school-inspired fashion. Available in a variety of colors and sizes, the PS1 has become one of the brand's most iconic and recognizable pieces.

       

©vogue.com
   

Additionally, FW24 features a variety of bags, from the slim cylindrical Silo bag to totes and shoulder bags. The key is to choose one that fits your lifestyle best. Personally, the editor has their eye on the Ruched tote bag.

    

Silo bag, Ruched tote bag ©@proenzaschouler

Large Drawstring shoulder bag, Park shoulder bag ©@proenzaschouler
   

The highly anticipated cozy blanket top. There's actually an interesting story behind its creation.

Since this duo doesn’t design menswear, they were looking for the perfect “gift” for their male friends’ weddings and made a king-sized blanket out of double-faced cashmere. One day a stylist wrapped the blanket around herself like a piece of clothing, and the idea to incorporate blanket-inspired pieces into their collections was born.

    

Proenza Schouler FW24 ©vogue.com
   

The sheer fabric exudes a certain elegance. Whether layered for any season or worn on its own, it’s the kind of shirt and dress you’ll always want in your wardrobe. Proenza Schouler’s delicate craftsmanship brings out the graceful silhouette of a woman, showcasing their true talent.

      

Proenza Schouler FW24 SS24 ©vogue.com
   

While minimalism and precise tailoring have long been synonymous with Proenza Schouler, the brand also often embraces the playful movement of fringe. A favorite addition to their collections, fringe dresses bring a sense of freedom, with one standout piece being a black dress with fringe detailing at the hem, layered over pants for an effortlessly stylish look that’s hard to resist copying.

      

Proenza Schouler SS25 ©vogue.com
   

The pants are the same. At first glance, they seem minimal, but look closer and the details really stand out. For example, the denim and leather piece creates a layered effect, with a belt tightly cinched at the waist—this is pure New York style.

     

©@proenzaschouler ©vogue.com
     

Just as they named the brand after their mothers, Proenza Schouler is a brand for women. It's a brand that thoughtfully incorporates authenticity in its approach to femininity, with even the smallest details reflecting that commitment. Let’s also not forget, it's also a destination for incredible shoes.

     

Proenza Schouler SS25 ©vogue.com
    

If you're looking for more wearable pieces, take a look at Proenza Schouler's White Label. Launched in 2019, this line is all about casual everyday styles that still carry the brand's signature sophistication.

      

Proenza Schouler White Label ©proenzaschouler.com
      

Proenza Schouler is dedicated to creating a better life for women. As they’ve said, “We are interested in building the perfect, modern wardrobe for city women.” Having spent the past 20 years designing for women in cities around the world, it’s exciting to think about what the next 20 years will bring.